My first introduction to the singular beauty of England’s West Country was in Somerset 15 years ago and began with an alarmingly sharp right turn off a country highway onto a “lane”—a steep descent between fields of indifferent sheep along what most Americans might call a hiking path. Towering hedgerows of beech trees sprouting through ancient stones periodically engulfed our car, threatening the paint job and protruding elbows. So when my wife, a Somerset native, brought our family of four to Cornwall for a seaside escape last summer, I thought I knew what to expect. Turns out the rugged far-southwestern tip of England is like no place I’ve ever been, with a rural charm reminiscent of neighboring Somerset, Devon, and Dorset, but with a unique scenery and vibe all its own. Wide sandy beaches ease their way into gentle surf, surrounded by world-class art, outstanding dining, and some of the best coffee I have ever had. The mood is relaxed, the reserve of rural England softening under vast stretches of sea and sky, and gardens brim with lush palm trees, ferns, and cacti thriving on jet stream warmth. The restaurants are in a class of their own, embodied by casual-fancy establishments that occupy a middle ground between pubs and fine dining, featuring brilliantly executed food absent any pretense.
Middle Colenso Farm
We found this small collection of cottages through Sawday’s, which visits all the properties they recommend, and for us has an impeccable track record for accommodations across Europe. (Many rural areas of England eschew booking platforms like Airbnb, so regional sites can dramatically expand options.) Middle Colenso Farm is a series of old stone farm buildings, updated with tasteful interiors and sculpted gravel paths through beautiful lush subtropical vegetation. Along with a fully functional and well-stocked kitchen, we were grateful to have a woodburning fireplace as nights are cool even in summer. Yoga classes and a sauna are located on site, and the location near Penzance and St Ives makes it a great jumping-off point for exploration.
Origin Coffee
The pleasure I take in coffee and pastries is well-documented, and a source of great amusement to my children who roll their eyes when I propose planning an entire day around it. Good thing they can’t drive, because my detour to Porthleven to visit Origin was the caffeine highlight of the week. The beans are roasted in-house, the coffee drinks meticulously crafted, and the quayside location made for a uniquely pleasant experience. And the baked goods are nothing short of dreamy: My sugar-dusted laminated morning bun was unimpeachable, and the fact that they had a gluten-free pistachio tea cake for my wife just sealed the deal.
Argoe
At the edge of a working harbor outside of Penzance, this modern restaurant’s minimalist, boxy silhouette hovers above the water. The majority of the seats are outdoors on a partly covered deck, with tartan blankets at each place to dull the chill, and the cool, salty wind made the simple, refined seafood dishes all the more compelling. A section of grilled skin-on turbot rests in a pool of butter and lemon, while a deep, bisque-textured fish soup had saline richness that I had never thought possible. Squid “meatballs” were devoured by our kids along with sardines, while my wife and I reverently dismantled a delicate hispi cabbage that had been grilled and lacquered with shellfish butter. This is a restaurant that could exist nowhere else in the world, a celebration of the region’s vast oceanic bounty served with honest, unfussy deliciousness.
Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens
Cornwall’s temperate climate is a welcoming environment for all kinds of tropical plants, and this garden showcases outrageous examples of palm trees and other flora one might not expect in rural England, with contemporary sculptures interspersed throughout. Our favorite was the James Turrell installation set into the hillside, with an oculus that brings the sky seemingly within reach. It is a bit of a trek to get to, but well worth it—if you’re lucky, you may well end up being the only visitor.
The Big Green Shed
A hole-in-the-wall kind of place, if the wall is a field of wildflowers set in one of the most picturesque countrysides on earth—the perfect intermezzo to a day spent exploring. There’s indoor seating in the event of rain (a not-uncommon occurrence), but the widely spaced picnic tables in the garden are where you want to be. The vibe is super casual, with an all-day breakfast menu and rotating lunch specials. The options are an eclectic mix, featuring lightened versions of classics: think gluten-free pancakes with savory yogurt and berries, crispy eggplant bao buns, and shakshuka with Halloumi cheese.
Tate St Ives Museum
If you can brave the narrow streets of St Ives and manage to find a parking spot, this is a fantastic small museum just steps away from the beach in one of Cornwall’s quaintest towns. We were entranced by Mark Rothko’s Seagram murals, as well as the colorful works of Beatriz Milhazes. I highly recommend Talay Thai Kitchen for lunch before or after; the second-floor location makes it feel comfortably removed from the fray of tourists on the main road through town.
St Ives Bakery
Outside of major cities, high-quality bakeries can be tough to come by. St Ives Bakery is an absolute standout by any metric, a must-visit for sourdough breads, cakes, and its famous laminated buns—a.k.a. cruffins—which are well worth the shame of saying aloud to order. The savory pasties, stuffed with irresistible fillings like steak and Stilton cheese or veggies and cheddar, make for a great walking lunch. The line down the block is absolutely worth it, especially if you’re stocking up on a couple days worth of baked goods.
The Coast Path and the Beach
Wherever you find yourself in Cornwall, you must seek out one of the many access points to the footpath that runs all around the southwest coast of England. It affords some of the most
spectacular hiking in the country, and is available to everyone in keeping with the English tradition of maintaining rural land accessible for recreation. And the ease of stepping onto Cornwall’s sandy, expansive beaches will astound you. Affordable wetsuits (as little as $25!) from local shops and the gentle surf make getting into the ocean, and even paddling into a surfing or boogie-boarding lineup, very appealing.
Next Time…
We’ve already got a list going for our return trip to this magical place. A little bit further inland, chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield’s 66-acre Coombeshead Farm near Launceston offers comfortable rooms and a everchanging seasonal menu that reflects the bounty of the on-site farm, bakery, and Mangalitza ham-making operation. We also vowed to visit one of chef Simon Stallard’s restaurants, like the rustic-chic Standard Inn in Portscatho, or his more casual beachside eatery, The Hidden Hut on the coast path near Truro.
